Ceramic Coating & PPF Guide: Get It Done
What Happens at a Ceramic Coating Appointment
Most of a ceramic coating appointment is not spent coating. The liquid itself goes on in a few careful passes. The hours before that go into getting the paint clean enough, smooth enough and bare enough for the coating to bond, and the hours after go into letting it cure.
This guide walks through each stage in the order it happens, what it is for, and what you can check yourself. Where a detail of our own process is not published, we say so: those are things we confirm with you when you book.
The short answer
A ceramic coating appointment runs in stages: an inspection of the paint, a thorough wash and chemical decontamination, clay bar work, machine polishing (an enhancement or a 1-step or 2-step correction), a solvent prep wipe to strip polishing oils, application of the coating panel by panel, a cure period away from water, and a pickup walkaround with care instructions. Prep takes most of the time.
Key points
- The coating bonds to whatever is on the surface, so the wash, decontamination and polishing decide how good the result looks and how long it lasts.
- At The Auto Show, a Level 2 detail is the minimum before any coating, and the paint must be corrected or enhanced first.
- IGL's data sheet for Kenzo says to keep the coated surface away from water for about 4 hours and lists a full cure in 3 to 5 days.
- Final price and timing are confirmed after the inspection, because paint condition sets how much correction the car needs.
- You leave with care instructions at pickup; the first wash after a coating matters more than any other.
Before the day
Booking, drop-off and getting home
Every job here is by appointment. You can book a package online or request a quote on the booking page, and a deposit confirms the slot. The deposit amount and the cancellation policy are shown when you book, so read them there rather than relying on what a friend paid somewhere else.
There is no waiting area, and a coating is not a wait-in-the-lobby job anyway, so plan a ride for drop-off and pickup. If your schedule only works in the evening, drop-off after 6 pm can be arranged by phone. Our preparation article covers what to take out of the car and what to tell us before you hand over the keys.
One thing to avoid the week before: a spray wax or sealant from the gas station. Anything sitting on the paint has to come off before a coating can bond. IGL's own data sheet for Kenzo says a previously treated surface should be properly stripped, preferably with a polishing agent, so a fresh layer of wax just becomes more work for the prep stage.
Stage 1
Inspection: what the paint can and can't become
The appointment starts with a close look at the paint under good light. The goal is to sort defects into two groups: the ones polishing can remove (car-wash swirls, light scratches, water spots that have not etched deep, oxidation, staining) and the ones it can't (chips, scratches that catch a fingernail, clear coat that is already failing).
This is where the final price gets set. Published coating prices are starting prices by vehicle size, and the correction the paint needs is what moves the number. We show you what can and cannot be removed before any work starts, so the result you picture matches the result you get.
- Point out anything that bothers you: a key scratch, a hazy panel, a spot where something was spilled.
- Tell us about any repaint or body work. Refinished panels can behave differently under a polisher.
- Ask which areas get the most attention for your budget. Hoods and roofs usually show the most sun wear on Upstate cars.
Stage 2
Wash and decontamination
A normal wash removes dirt that is sitting on the paint. It does not remove what is stuck in it: iron particles from brake dust and rail dust, tar, bug residue, tree sap and the bonded film that builds up from road grime. Those have to go, or the polisher drags them across the paint and the coating seals them in.
That is why a Level 2 detail is our minimum before any coating. It adds iron remover on the wheels and paint, bug and tar remover, a clay bar and trim restorer to the hand wash. Unless the vehicle is brand new, wheels are de-ironed and polished where needed too.
Hand wash
Loose dirt and road film come off first with a hand wash, so nothing gritty is left to scratch the paint during later steps.
Iron remover
A chemical spray reacts with embedded iron particles and dissolves them. On a car that sees a lot of highway braking, this step alone can take a while on the wheels.
Bug and tar remover
Solvent cleaners soften baked-on bugs and tar spots, which are common on the front end of any car that runs I-85 in summer.
Clay bar
A clay bar glides over lubricated paint and pulls out bonded contamination the chemicals left behind. Afterward the paint should feel smooth as glass to the touch.
Drying
Polished and coated vehicles are blown dry, which keeps towels off the paint at the stage where the finish is about to be refined.
Stage 3
Correction or enhancement
A coating makes paint glossier and slicker, but it is clear. Every swirl and scratch under it stays visible, and now it is sealed in for years. Machine polishing is the stage that decides how the car will look when the coating goes on.
There are three levels. A Level 3 detail adds a machine paint enhancement for gloss: it brightens the finish but is not a correction. A 1-step correction (about 2 days in the shop) uses a single machine-polishing stage to reduce swirls, hard-water spots, oxidation, light scratches and staining. A 2-step correction (about 3 days) adds a cutting stage before the refining polish, and it is the best prep for a coating. Which one your car needs comes out of the inspection.
Polishing removes a thin layer of clear coat, and clear coat does not grow back. A careful installer works within safe limits, which is why some deeper defects are reduced rather than erased. Results depend on paint condition.
- Enhancement (Level 3 detail)Gloss
- One light machine polish for clarity and shine. A good fit for newer paint in decent shape when the budget is going toward the coating itself. Enhancement vs correction
- 1-Step correctionFrom $799.99, about 2 days
- A single polishing stage that takes out most wash marring and light defects. Right for a daily driver with typical car-wash swirls.
- 2-Step correctionFrom $1,399.99, about 3 days
- A cutting stage, then a refining polish. More defect removal and the clearest finish under a long-life coating. 1-step vs 2-step
Stage 4
The prep wipe: stripping polishing oils
Polishes contain oils that fill fine scratches and make paint look better than it is. They also block bonding. Before coating, each panel gets wiped with a solvent panel prep (IGL's process calls for its Ecoclean Precoat degreaser) to leave a completely clean, reactive surface.
This step also tells the truth about the correction. Once the oils are gone, any defect that was only filled, not removed, shows up again. IGL's Kenzo data sheet says to coat the cleaned surface immediately afterward so nothing new settles on it.
Stage 5
Applying the coating
Coating is applied in small sections, not sprayed over the whole car. For Kenzo, our 5-year coating, IGL's instructions describe a few drops on an applicator cloth, worked over roughly a 3 by 3 foot area in an up-and-down then side-to-side pattern, overlapping each pass. After 5 to 10 minutes, or when the cloth starts to drag slightly, the residue is leveled and buffed off with a clean microfiber.
Kenzo is a two-part system. The base layer needs about 2 hours to set at normal shop temperatures before the top layer goes on, and the top layer is buffed off after 30 seconds to 2 minutes. IGL warns that coating left to harden unevenly for more than 12 hours has to be polished off and reapplied, which is why good lighting and a methodical panel order matter so much.
Conditions matter as well. The data sheet says not to apply in direct sunlight or on a hot surface, with a working range of 41 to 104 degrees Fahrenheit and an ideal of about 68 to 79. On a July afternoon in Anderson, that rules out a driveway job. Our 3-year (IGL Quartz+) and 1-year (IGL EZ) options follow their own instructions, and any add-ons you chose, such as wheels or glass, are coated at this stage too.
Stage 6
Curing: the hours you don't see
A freshly coated surface feels dry to the touch long before it is fully cured. For Kenzo, IGL says to let the coated surface air dry for about 4 hours and avoid contact with water, and that it fully cures in 3 to 5 days. During that window it should not be washed with harsh shampoos, all-purpose cleaners or anything caustic; plain water is fine if the car needs a rinse.
How long the car stays with us after application, and whether it goes home the same day or the next, depends on the product, the add-ons and the weather. We confirm that when you book rather than give you a number that may not fit your car.
Stage 7
Pickup: what to check before you drive away
Pickup is a walkaround, not just a key handoff. Look at the paint at an angle in daylight, then up close. Ask anything you want explained. Care instructions are given at pickup, and they are worth following exactly for the first few weeks.
- Look for high spots: dark, smeared or rainbow patches where coating residue was not fully leveled. They are easiest to see at a low angle.
- Check the areas you pointed out at inspection and compare them with what you were told was realistic.
- Ask which product went on each surface and keep the paperwork. Any warranty terms come from IGL, not from a verbal promise.
- Ask about our monthly maintenance program for coated vehicles if you would rather not do upkeep yourself.
- If rain is forecast for the drive home, ask what to do. Usually the answer is: nothing, then follow the care sheet.
| Stage | What happens | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Inspection | Paint checked under light; what polishing can and can't remove is sorted | Sets the correction level and the final price |
| Wash and decon | Hand wash, iron remover, bug and tar remover, clay bar (Level 2 minimum) | Nothing gets sealed under the coating |
| Polishing | Enhancement, 1-step or 2-step correction | Decides how the paint looks under the coating |
| Prep wipe | Solvent panel prep strips polishing oils | Lets the coating bond and reveals any filled defects |
| Application | Coating worked in small sections, leveled, buffed | Even film, no high spots |
| Cure | Kept dry for hours; full cure over days | Durability and water behavior depend on it |
| Pickup | Walkaround, product details, care instructions | Your first washes protect the result |
Timing for the full appointment depends on prep and product; we confirm it when you book.
Book your coating appointment
Tell us your vehicle and which coating you are considering. We inspect the paint, confirm the prep it needs and the final price before any work starts.
Common questions
Can I wait at the shop while my car is coated?
No. There is no waiting area, and a coating appointment is not a few-hour job once prep and cure are included. Plan a ride for drop-off and pickup. If daytime drop-off is hard to fit in, drop-off after 6 pm can be arranged by phone; call to set it up before your appointment.
Should I wash or wax my car before a ceramic coating appointment?
Do not wax it. Any wax or sealant has to be stripped before the coating can bond, so it only adds prep work. A rinse to take off heavy mud is fine but not required; the full wash and decontamination are part of the appointment. Just take your belongings out of the car.
What if it rains right after I pick up my coated car?
Light rain after pickup is usually not a problem once the initial dry period has passed, but follow the care instructions you are given. If water spots dry on the car during the first days, rinse them with plain water and dry gently rather than reaching for a cleaner. Call us if anything looks wrong.
Can I bring my car in for the coating and have correction done later?
Not in that order. Polishing after a coating removes the coating from the area you polish, so correction always comes first. If budget is the issue, ask about a Level 3 detail with machine enhancement before the coating, or a 1-step correction instead of a 2-step.
Do I get paperwork showing which coating was applied?
Ask for it, and keep it. Knowing the exact product on each surface matters when you buy maintenance products, when you sell the car and if you ever need to use a manufacturer's warranty. Any warranty terms come from IGL's documents, so read those rather than relying on a summary.
Keep reading
Sources
- Technical Data Sheet: Ecocoat Kenzo K1, IGL Coatings (https://iglcoatings.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/tds_ecocoat_kenzo_K1_154343.pdf), accessed October 2026
- Ecocoat Kenzo, IGL Coatings (https://iglcoatings.com/products/ecocoat-kenzo-graphene-reinforced/), accessed October 2026
- Ecocoat Quartz, IGL Coatings (https://iglcoatings.com/products/ecocoat-quartz/), accessed October 2026
- Ecocoat EZ, IGL Coatings (https://iglcoatings.com/products/ecocoat-ez/), accessed October 2026
Prices on this page are The Auto Show’s published starting prices and are confirmed after we inspect the vehicle. Product ratings and warranty terms come from the manufacturers.